On the thirteen and fourteenth of October, The Armoury in New York played host to a meeting of minds. Bespoke trouser maker Salvatore Ambrosi and shoemakers Saint Crispin’s came together to exhibit their wares to the city’s sartorially savvy and once again, American Rake Mr. K.E. Guerre was in attendance to report on proceedings.
The Alfred Dunhill Links is gloriously alchemical. For one weekend in October you’ll see things that don’t, and can’t, happen in any other place; you’ll see the world no.792 golfer beat the world no.1; you’ll see the dunhill bespoke tailoring team getting a putting lesson from Bill Murray
As readers are by now probably well aware, here at The Rake we are always interested in the crossover between casual, relaxed clothing and the tailored aesthetic we’ve been passionately advocating ever since we launched. The expanding range at Orlebar Brown is particularly interesting in that context.
Anderson & Sheppard’s London Haberdashery on Clifford Street has effortlessly gained a reputation as one of the best gentleman’s outfitters in the capital; a rare hub of beautifully conceived and crafted luxury gentlemen’s accessories and accoutrements.
A record bale prize from Loro Piana, announcing another phenomenally fine wool, is hardly news anymore. But it is interesting how close the margins are now becoming. In 17 years fineness has increased by 30%. And the prize is now down to a combination of length and strength.
The most-recent bespoke creations from the Parisian house of Cifonelli include a Casentino overcoat with a nautical feel and a jacket that flips the normal pocket preconceptions.
Seemingly continuing the New York theme this week, a rather special trunk show took place a few days ago between the 9th-10th of October, whereby arch-shoemaker Pierre Corthay made a rare visit to the Big Apple
to both display Corthay’s very fine ready-to-wear collection, and likewise receive new custom ready-to-wear and bespoke orders.
American readers will doubtless be delighted to hear that Michael Browne of Chittleborough & Morgan will be travelling to New York later this month to serve overseas clients, marking the house’s first trip to New York in some seven years.
Artistic director of Lanvin, Alber Elbaz, is known for his striking and playful set pieces in Lanvin flagship stores, particularly on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. A new book, Lanvin I Love You, attempts to dig into that inspiration by collecting photos, sketches, stories and handwritten notes by Elbaz that offer a unique insight into the spirit of the fashion house.
Crockett & Jones, the Northampton shoemaker, has always had one of the biggest ranges of stores and therefore access points to high-end English shoes in London. Last month that grew once more, with the opening of its sixth store, in Canary Wharf.