Turnbull & Asser has positioned itself within a sartorial area we at The Rake have had our eye on for a while, which we call ‘Casual Formal’. The Informalist line is aimed at fans of ‘English’ style, which whilst known for the ‘No1 dress’ of civvy street, the bespoke suit, is also expert at casual wear.
A record bale prize from Loro Piana, announcing another phenomenally fine wool, is hardly news anymore. But it is interesting how close the margins are now becoming. In 17 years fineness has increased by 30%. And the prize is now down to a combination of length and strength.
The most-recent bespoke creations from the Parisian house of Cifonelli include a Casentino overcoat with a nautical feel and a jacket that flips the normal pocket preconceptions.
Seemingly continuing the New York theme this week, a rather special trunk show took place a few days ago between the 9th-10th of October, whereby arch-shoemaker Pierre Corthay made a rare visit to the Big Apple
to both display Corthay’s very fine ready-to-wear collection, and likewise receive new custom ready-to-wear and bespoke orders.
American readers will doubtless be delighted to hear that Michael Browne of Chittleborough & Morgan will be travelling to New York later this month to serve overseas clients, marking the house’s first trip to New York in some seven years.
Artistic director of Lanvin, Alber Elbaz, is known for his striking and playful set pieces in Lanvin flagship stores, particularly on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. A new book, Lanvin I Love You, attempts to dig into that inspiration by collecting photos, sketches, stories and handwritten notes by Elbaz that offer a unique insight into the spirit of the fashion house.
Crockett & Jones, the Northampton shoemaker, has always had one of the biggest ranges of stores and therefore access points to high-end English shoes in London. Last month that grew once more, with the opening of its sixth store, in Canary Wharf.
Cartier’s new campaign combines watch mechanisms, leopards, spaceships and a father-son relationship in an extravagantly luxurious representation of the brand’s vision.
The ‘Shape Your Time’ film, directed by Bruno Aveillan, is targeted solidly at men and displays an array of Cartier pieces, both classic and modern. Cartier places itself as a pioneer of inventiveness and creativity in watch-making: the film intertwines the magical and scientific, producing highly-functioning pieces of extreme beauty. Have a look.
At Rake Towers, we regularly debate topics ranging from the mystery effect of the medio tiempo leaf on the Cohiba Behike, or the positive/negative impact on the silhouette that roped shoulders produces; you know, the important stuff.
Harrods will play host to a three-week long Edward Green pop-up shop this month. The Northhampton-based shoemaker, with a recently (and beautifully) redesigned store on Jermyn Street, is launching a new last to be displayed and available in the Harrods shoe department.
On Thursday and Friday this week, Leffot will be hosting the first trunk showin New York by Florentine bespoke shoemaker Stefano Bemer.