The DB series: Thom Sweeney
In the second of our series on double-breasted stylings, we look at the achingly cool upstarts of Mayfair tailoring, Thom Sweeney.
Thom Sweeney, 1 Weighhouse Street, London
The Thom Sweeney double-breasted blazer is short, slim and modern.
As you might expect, Thom Whiddett and Luke Sweeney (the two halves of Thom Sweeney) have a rather different take on the double-breasted than the other tailors in this series. Their jacket is a good bit shorter; the sleeves are a touch narrower; the wrap is noticeably smaller.
This makes the cut more contemporary, and has knock-on effects on other aspects of the jacket. For example, the shorter length means it isn’t suited to being fastened at the bottom button – that draws attention to the length. And raising the buttons closes off the tie-space: Thom in particular (below) has his cut with a 4.5-inch wrap to mitigate this effect. As the wrap is reduced, the lapels open up, giving the shirt and tie some breathing room.
“We like a DB blazer that sets itself apart from suit, that doesn’t look as if the trousers are missing,” says Thom. Both have jackets in unusual materials to that same end: Luke (pictured above) uses a brown high-twist cloth and Thom a big, heavy Prince of Wales.
Both agree that tailors are uniquely suited to wearing a DB, as being on your feet all day means you avoid the problem of how to sit in it comfortably. “If you’re desk-bound the DB has to be cut a little looser,” says Luke. “Either that or you fasten and unfasten it all the time.” Thom also favours DBs for their real or imaginary warmth: “I find I wear a lot more double-breasteds in winter,” he says. “They feel cosier.”