The DB series: Solito
Sartoria Solito, 256 Via Toledo, Naples
The Neapolitan style of a Solito double-breasted jacket instantly sets it apart from the other tailors profiled in this series: Richard Anderson and Thom Sweeney.
The complete lack of padding in the shoulder, combined with the ‘spalla camicia’ construction of the sleeve – which runs underneath the shoulder rather than over it, like a conventional jacket – lends it a soft and intensely relaxed look.
“It’s not hard for the Neapolitan jacket to stand out. It is so different from everything else in England, and in fact more similar to many ready-to-wear jackets produced on the high street these days,” says Luigi Solito.
The look is accentuated by the swelled edges on the jacket – prominent here on the lapels and collar, where they meet around a relatively horizontal gorge, and on the patch pockets. The subtle curve of those pockets and the upward tick of the breast pocket are also tell-tale signs of Neapolitan style.
As a sports jacket, Luigi cuts his DB a little shorter than most English contemporaries. It is noticeable, however, that the button placement is fairly traditional. The gap between the central buttons is more than some more fashion-forward tailors, such as Thom Sweeney, and they are placed relatively high on the waist.
“It’s not a traditional English cut, perhaps, but is certainly traditional for Naples,” says Luigi. Even the colours, which are practically fluorescent by Savile Row standards, would not be out of place back in the south of Italy.