Fitting with Sartoria Vergallo
Sartoria Vergallo is a small tailor from Varese, just north of Milan, that has become popular in London in recent years as it has begun visiting on a monthly basis.
Gianni Cleopazzo, Sartoria Vergallo
Vergallo began operating in 1943, launched in the village of in San Cesario di Lecce by Carmelo Vergallo. Briefly based in the US army base of Galatina during the second world war, the family ended up in Varese and is run today by Gianni Cleopazzo, the third generation.
Gianni is the sole cutter, with a handful of tailors working in his Art Noveau villa in the centre of Varese. I visited last year, and it was lovely to see such a self-contained tailoring operation in a stylish building, set back from the road. All tailoring ‘houses’ would ideally be in such settings.
Gianni’s style is in common with most northern Italian tailors, being soft in construction but more classical than the Neapolitans. He welcomes experimentation, however. My first piece with Gianni was a regular navy suit – just in an unusual cloth, a Caccioppoli cashmere. The second project, the jacket you see here, is rather different. It will have a spalla camicia shoulder, very little padding in the chest or shoulder, and patch pockets.
The cloth is a silk/wool mix in an open weave – a vintage 1970s length that I bought from a friend last year. Gianni admits it was pretty tough to work with, but that the reward has been that much greater as a result. The jacket will also have the unusual touches of grey suede under the collar and under the buttons on the cuffs (though on the layer under the buttonholes, so it won’t show immediately from the outside).
Vergallo, perhaps most importantly, is great value with a starting price of €1800 for a suit. This is one of the benefits of being a regional tailor, and I don’t know any Italian tailor travelling to London that can offer greater value for money.
In the first picture below, Gianni is on the right. On the left is Luca, who helps with Gianni’s visits to London (organisation and translation).