Beyond Savile Row: Cordone 1956 bespoke
There seems to be a resurgence of the well suited gent. Quite thankfully, after decades of dressing down, it’s heartening to see a loudly vocal but sartorial minority of men elevate tailored suits from “fringe hobby” to mainstream consciousness- Today we look at Cordone 1956 bespoke tailoring.
The two man (really one woman- his sister Virginia, one man- Luigi) outfit is among the increasing numbers of haberdashers turning the tide against Gen X pleated pants and the oversized suit crowd.
A person wearing the garment must feel the soft caress of the fabric and the structure of the jacket should fit like a second skin.
We spoke to to Luigi Cordone, the sartorial prodigy who at 15 worked alongside his grandfather and parents learning the finer points of bespoke tailoring, the result of decades of artisanal apprenticeship? Cordone 1956.
What are the critical elements for a jacket?
The most important thing for a jacket is the armhole and the fit of the sleeve. They are the fundamental pillars of fit and comfort in a suit. A person wearing the garment must feel the soft caress of the fabric and the structure of the jacket should fit like a second skin.
We believe that the Italian school especially the Neapolitan cut is the best ever. Neapolitan suits have a very tight, pronounced shoulder giving men a very masculine and macho appearance.
You mention bespoke and handmade in the same brand tagline. Why?
We are very proud that all our garments are hand-cut and worked on manually. We absolutely do not use machines, only through handcrafting can we customise a product to 100% of what the customer has instructed.
We can tell when a client is knowledgeable as he usually dictates a lot of the details. What a lot of people don’t know is that on Savile Row, many of the established tailors are constrained by a ‘house style’. That means even with instructions, a suit will come out easily identifiable as belonging to that tailoring house, this in turn means that a suit might not fit you the way a second skin should- Following a customer’s directions are definitely important.
In my judgement, classic coats from the past are the most elegant. The cashmere travel jacket from Cordone 1956 is really classy considering that the martingale behind the vent is double stitched and sewn entirely by hand- with baby alpaca cashmere, this is an extremely difficult task.